Camariñas is one of those towns with a very distinctive identity: simply saying its name immediately brings to mind the word lace, that delicate fabric crafted by the light, skilful hands of local artisans.
The origin of the town’s name comes from the shrub known as caramiña (Corema album), which used to grow on the dunes of the now-vanished beach where the settlement was founded. First came the parish of San Xurxo de Buría, further inland and agricultural, and later the seafaring town was established closer to the coast to take advantage of the sea’s resources.
The Moscoso family, from their stronghold in Vimianzo, imposed their rule over this harbour, which by the 15th century already stood out for its fishing and commercial activity. The sheltered beach of O Curveiro served as a landing place, frequented by vessels from other countries sailing along this coastline. Sardines and conger eel were the most commonly caught species in this estuary. By the mid-18th century there were two trincados, or galleons, devoted to sardine fishing; once salted, the catch was exported to the Basque Country.
In the early years of the 20th century, Camariñas was a fishing town with a harmonious streetscape: houses with balconies or glazed galleries, painted white, and narrow streets leading down to the harbour. There were hardly any buildings that disrupted that balance of height and colour. The parish church and the windmill stood out on the higher ground. Fishing was the main activity, complemented by maritime trade. From its port, salted sardines, timber and cereals were exported, while manufactured goods and a variety of food products were imported.
That urban character began to change in the 1970s and 1980s, when new constructions replaced traditional architecture, giving the town the look we see today. Camariñas now appears as a more modern town, though without the charm it once had—of white houses or colours in harmony with its boats.
There are several attractions that Camariñas offers visitors. First of all, it is the lace capital of Galicia, which allows any traveller to discover this craft and learn its story at the Lace Museum, or to see it being made in real time—by watching a lacemaker in the street or visiting one of the municipal training schools. If you visit during Holy Week, you’ll come across the biggest display you can imagine at the Mostra do Encaixe, held every year around that time since 1991.
Visitors with a stronger interest in history or art can explore the ruins of the Castelo do Soberano, a fortress built in the mid-18th century, or visit the parish church of San Xurxo, a notable building both for its architecture and for the altarpieces it houses inside.
