Between the southern end of the Nemiña beach and Mellón Point, the small Lires ría meets the ocean. In fact, it is the mouths of the estuaries of the rivers Castro and Lires rather than a ría. The river Castro is the most important waterway of the district of Fisterra, formerly Nemancos. It rises at the upper end of the parish of Castrelo (Vimianzo), and after flowing through Berdoias, it waters the lands of Muxía, Dumbría and Cee, forming the boundaries between these municipalities. Its name comes from the Castro, the fortified settlement (Coucieiro, Muxía) where the Caldeiras do Castro falls is, a natural area of great beauty. After a surprising curve to the west, it flows out into the Lires ría.
The other branch of this little ría continues on to the estuary of the river Lires and almost to the parish church of Santo Estevo, where a rural parish already existed in the 12th century, even though the current church only dates back to the mid-18th century. Its plain façade has almost no decorative elements. The few that can be seen feature the Baroque style that was in vogue when it was built. In the centre of Lires, interspersed among the modern buildings, which now predominate, are some traditional houses with stone hórreos (traditional Galician granaries).
The parish of Cee is protected by the Monte Mellón mount from the ocean winds, making the town and the land around it a secluded, hospitable place for the crops and the people who live here. The town had a tradition of working the land, and also of using the resources of the sea as a supplement, until the 1960s when, attracted by its lovely, sheltered environment, the first tourists arrived and were given accommodation in the labourers’ cottages, making Lires a pioneer of rural tourism.
The change in the activities of the population was helped by the route from Santiago to Fisterra-Muxía becoming a Way of St. James. On the stage that links these two coastal towns, Lires is a required stopping place as it stands at the halfway point along the route. In recent years, the town has become a benchmark of tourism in the area. Its small ría is a place much appreciated by nature lovers, who have the opportunity here to spot a large number of different birds. From its coast, one can enjoy excellent views over the Nemiña beach and the mouth of the river Castro, and some beautiful sunsets.
